Team3S

Re: Question

2010-07-22T15:51:02Z

>
> Never ground any power source unless you like sparks, smoke, and electics destroyed. Several components in cars have redisual power, sometimes in the form of capacitors and sometimes others (like little batteries.)

I think what you're looking for is just to disconnect the battery for a
couple hours.

David M.

> Puttin on my brain here..but..I agree it wouldnt DO anything, but why
> would that be a bad thing to do..both cables off, touching..there's
> nothin there.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 9:33 AM, Willis,Charles E
> <Chwillis@mdanderson.org>; wrote:
>
>> No don't do that!
>> ________________________________
>> From: james costa<jimcosta@rogers.com>;
>> To: Willis,Charles E
>> Sent: Tue Jul 20 10:52:59 2010
>> Subject: [Team3S] Question
>>
>> Hi I have a question but not sure this is how I ask it….
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The question:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I read somewhere that to reset the EU I must disconnect the battery cables
>> and touch the positive and negative Cables for 5 seconds…..Is this the case?
>>
>>
>>
>> Any response would be appreciated…..jim
>>
>> To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
>>
>> To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
>>
>
>
>

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Re: Big Question

2010-07-22T15:42:04Z

135k on my '94 VR-4.

David M

I'll check when I get back to Houston. In Philly until Wednesday noon.

From: Gary Kissinger <kissingeg001@hawaii.rr.com>
To: Willis,Charles E
Sent: Mon Jul 19 15:34:57 2010
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Big Question

Big Question

How many miles on each of those cars, please?

Gary

From: Willis,Charles E [mailto:Chwillis@mdanderson.org]
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 10:30 AM
To: kissingeg001@hawaii.rr.com
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Big Question

I am holding on to my 93s 94 and 95 ....

From: Gary Kissinger <kissingeg001@hawaii.rr.com>
To: Willis,Charles E
Sent: Mon Jul 19 13:10:51 2010
Subject: [Team3S] Big Question

Hello everyone,

I appear to be at a decision point with regards to my 92 TT/RT, and I would appreciate your collective help.

The car has 160K miles on the clock, and currently needs a new AC compressor (+/- $800) and it has a oil leak that is apparently coming from the cam shaft seals. (+/- $800, replacing the seals, water pump, timing belt, etc).

I don’t mind spending the dough to get these items fixed, but I wonder if my car (this engine) is nearing the end of its service life

Given that it is a basic daily driver, is never raced, has good (synth) oil changed regularly, can I expect that this motor will run for another say, 50K without major issues?

Thanks to all,

Gary

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Re: Mr Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

2010-07-21T13:46:02Z

Cool idea.

Thanks!

On 7/21/10 12:04 PM, "Peter Linss" <peter@linss.com> wrote:

A few years ago I found a local company that supplies the mobile car wash companies with reverse osmosis filtered water guaranteed to dry without spots. They had a hose out back connected to a vending machine so you could fill up a tank 24/7. IIRC it was about $1 for 5 or 10 gallons. I bought a couple of 20 gallon plastic bins, rigged one up to transport the water, and the second with a fitting so that I could connect my pressure washer. Used it for the rinse and never had a problem.

Peter

On Jul 20, 2010, at 4:29 PM, Danno wrote:

Folks,

For the last few years I’ve used the Mr. Clean Auto Dry car wash system to spare me the hassle of drying my black VR4 after washes in order to avoid water spots. Horror of horrors, Procter and Gamble discontinued the product and I can no longer purchase the special soap and de-ionizing filters that made the system work so well. Well, to be honest, I can buy the stuff at wildly inflated prices from Amazon or on eBay, but the gouging that’s going on has me looking for alternatives.

Anyone found anything else that works as well? Alternatively, would anyone on the list know of a dealer who’s willing to sell the stuff for less than the cost of an ounce of gold?

Thanks!

Danno

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Re: Mr Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

2010-07-21T11:05:05Z

A few years ago I found a local company that supplies the mobile car wash companies with reverse osmosis filtered water guaranteed to dry without spots. They had a hose out back connected to a vending machine so you could fill up a tank 24/7. IIRC it was about $1 for 5 or 10 gallons. I bought a couple of 20 gallon plastic bins, rigged one up to transport the water, and the second with a fitting so that I could connect my pressure washer. Used it for the rinse and never had a problem.

Peter

On Jul 20, 2010, at 4:29 PM, Danno wrote:

Folks,

For the last few years I�ve used the Mr. Clean Auto Dry car wash system to spare me the hassle of drying my black VR4 after washes in order to avoid water spots. Horror of horrors, Procter and Gamble discontinued the product and I can no longer purchase the special soap and de-ionizing filters that made the system work so well. Well, to be honest, I can buy the stuff at wildly inflated prices from Amazon or on eBay, but the gouging that�s going on has me looking for alternatives.

Anyone found anything else that works as well? Alternatively, would anyone on the list know of a dealer who�s willing to sell the stuff for less than the cost of an ounce of gold?

Thanks!

Danno

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Re: Question

2010-07-20T22:27:03Z

Just to confirm it- RcLee's answer is the correct one.

-Pete

Jul 20, 2010 07:18:52 PM, team3s@team3s.com wrote:

>
>I just checked by '94 RT auto. At idle, in N, and hot the dip stick shows
>
>the middle of the "hot" range. In P oil is splashed all over the
>dip stick
>so I could not tell the level.
>
>I answer is hot, idle, Neutral -- as the manual says (minus the idle part)
>it does not explicitly say idle.
>"Just drive until usual temperatures.
>Place on level floor
>Move selector to every position, leave in Neutral"
>
>RcLee

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Re: Mr Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

2010-07-20T22:08:03Z

I use my backpack leaf blower to dry my black VR-4, works great and leaves the car spotless in minutes with no cost of additional products. Works great on my Harley also

Ray

95 VR-4

----- Original Message -----

From: Danno

To: raygarceau@charter.net

Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 7:29 PM

Subject: [Team3S] Mr Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

Folks,

For the last few years I�ve used the Mr. Clean Auto Dry car wash system to spare me the hassle of drying my black VR4 after washes in order to avoid water spots. Horror of horrors, Procter and Gamble discontinued the product and I can no longer purchase the special soap and de-ionizing filters that made the system work so well. Well, to be honest, I can buy the stuff at wildly inflated prices from Amazon or on eBay, but the gouging that�s going on has me looking for alternatives.

Anyone found anything else that works as well? Alternatively, would anyone on the list know of a dealer who�s willing to sell the stuff for less than the cost of an ounce of gold?

Thanks!

Danno

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Mr Clean Auto Dry Car Wash

2010-07-20T18:30:04Z

Folks,

For the last few years I’ve used the Mr. Clean Auto Dry car wash system to spare me the hassle of drying my black VR4 after washes in order to avoid water spots. Horror of horrors, Procter and Gamble discontinued the product and I can no longer purchase the special soap and de-ionizing filters that made the system work so well. Well, to be honest, I can buy the stuff at wildly inflated prices from Amazon or on eBay, but the gouging that’s going on has me looking for alternatives.

Anyone found anything else that works as well? Alternatively, would anyone on the list know of a dealer who’s willing to sell the stuff for less than the cost of an ounce of gold?

Thanks!

Danno

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Re: Question

2010-07-20T18:17:03Z

I just checked by '94 RT auto. At idle, in N, and hot the dip stick shows
the middle of the "hot" range. In P oil is splashed all over the dip stick
so I could not tell the level.

I answer is hot, idle, Neutral -- as the manual says (minus the idle part)
it does not explicitly say idle.
"Just drive until usual temperatures.
Place on level floor
Move selector to every position, leave in Neutral"

RcLee

----- Original Message -----
From: james costa
To: rcleeny@verizon.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 5:59 PM
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

I feel foolish asking how to check the oil but I am unclear on this. When I
checked the level in N with the car still running put it in P and the level
was way upâ€¦.Makes no sense to me but I thought: Maybe particular to this
car????

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Re: Question

2010-07-20T17:50:06Z

I think we need to read the rules again

http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm

In particular:
Rule.02. NO FORMATTING. This is a TEXT ONLY list.
and
04. DON'T WASTE BANDWIDTH - 'TRIM' YOUR MESSAGES

RcLee

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Re: Question

2010-07-20T17:00:10Z

I feel foolish asking how to check the oil but I am unclear on this. When I checked the level in N with the car still running put it in P and the level was way up….Makes no sense to me but I thought: Maybe particular to this car????

From: richards@kandrelectronics.com [mailto:richards@kandrelectronics.com]
Sent: July-20-10 5:47 PM
To: jimcosta@rogers.com
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

the mechanics of the trans are as i stated the question I would have to ask is

was the first check in neutral then park and how long between checks

if it was put in neutral first then walked out and checked it then had someone put in park for him then check again the trans would have picked fluid up between n and p ( reverse ) it would for a short time show lower

since i was not there that is the only thing i can think of as a situation

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question
From: "Eckert, Timothy" <teckert@epri.com>
Date: Tue, July 20, 2010 4:29 pm
To: richards@kandrelectronics.com

If no difference why does he see diff oil level?

From: Richard Stephens <richards@kandrelectronics.com>
To: Eckert, Timothy
Sent: Tue Jul 20 14:20:52 2010
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

Neutral and park to a automatic trans are the same thing the only thing different is in park a pin locks the output shaft so it cannot move

Hope this helps

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

On Jul 20, 2010 4:04 PM, Eckert, Timothy <teckert@epri.com> wrote:

Back in my old Mopar days the auto dip stick said "check idling in
neutral". This was because in neutral the "front pump" was being
driven; that pump kept the torque converter and other "parts" full of
fluid.

Sounds like the 3S automatic is similar. I am guessing that neutral is
the right answer for the above stated reason. Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: james costa [mailto:jimcosta@rogers.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 4:46 PM
To: Eckert, Timothy
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

Thanks for the answers...Much appreciated!

As a new owner of a 95 GT 3000 SL There are a few things I have to
learn.

Another question: I have an auto-transmition and the manual states to
check
the fluid level in Neutral and the local mechanic says to check in Park.
I
have always checked the fluid level in auto-cars in Park.

The readings on the dip stick are way different from N to P....In Park
it
shows way overfilled and in Neutral it shows up to the hot \mark on the
stick.

Any clarification available would be again, much appreciated.

jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Mohler [mailto:speedtoys.racing@gmail.com]
Sent: July-20-10 12:39 PM
To: jimcosta@rogers.com
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

Puttin on my brain here..but..I agree it wouldnt DO anything, but why
would that be a bad thing to do..both cables off, touching..there's
nothin there.

On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 9:33 AM, Willis,Charles E
<Chwillis@mdanderson.org> wrote:
> No don't do that!
> ________________________________
> From: james costa <jimcosta@rogers.com>
> To: Willis,Charles E
> Sent: Tue Jul 20 10:52:59 2010
> Subject: [Team3S] Question
>
> Hi I have a question but not sure this is how I ask it..
>
>
>
>
>
> The question:
>
>
>
>
>
> I read somewhere that to reset the EU I must disconnect the battery
cables
> and touch the positive and negative Cables for 5 seconds...Is this the
case?
>
>
>
> Any response would be appreciated...jim
>
> To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
>
> To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm

--
---
Honk if you love Jesus, text while driving if you wanna meet him.

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Re: Question

2010-07-20T16:50:04Z

or the other way around checked in park fluid hi when put in N passes reverse pulls fluid in for engagement the in N it will be lower

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question
From: "james costa" <jimcosta@rogers.com>
Date: Tue, July 20, 2010 4:40 pm
To: richards@kandrelectronics.com

I should have added that my owners manual is for a 96 ( if that makes a difference). There is a serious oil level diff between N & P. In N below the HOT mark and in P halfway up the stick.

From: Eckert, Timothy [mailto:teckert@epri.com]
Sent: July-20-10 5:29 PM
To: jimcosta@rogers.com
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

If no difference why does he see diff oil level?

From: Richard Stephens <richards@kandrelectronics.com>
To: Eckert, Timothy
Sent: Tue Jul 20 14:20:52 2010
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

Neutral and park to a automatic trans are the same thing the only thing different is in park a pin locks the output shaft so it cannot move

Hope this helps

-- Sent from my Palm Pre

On Jul 20, 2010 4:04 PM, Eckert, Timothy <teckert@epri.com> wrote:

Back in my old Mopar days the auto dip stick said "check idling in
neutral". This was because in neutral the "front pump" was being
driven; that pump kept the torque converter and other "parts" full of
fluid.

Sounds like the 3S automatic is similar. I am guessing that neutral is
the right answer for the above stated reason. Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: james costa [mailto:jimcosta@rogers.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 4:46 PM
To: Eckert, Timothy
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

Thanks for the answers...Much appreciated!

As a new owner of a 95 GT 3000 SL There are a few things I have to
learn.

Another question: I have an auto-transmition and the manual states to
check
the fluid level in Neutral and the local mechanic says to check in Park.
I
have always checked the fluid level in auto-cars in Park.

The readings on the dip stick are way different from N to P....In Park
it
shows way overfilled and in Neutral it shows up to the hot \mark on the
stick.

Any clarification available would be again, much appreciated.

jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Mohler [mailto:speedtoys.racing@gmail.com]
Sent: July-20-10 12:39 PM
To: jimcosta@rogers.com
Subject: [Team3S] Re: Question

Puttin on my brain here..but..I agree it wouldnt DO anything, but why
would that be a bad thing to do..both cables off, touching..there's
nothin there.

On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 9:33 AM, Willis,Charles E
<Chwillis@mdanderson.org> wrote:
> No don't do that!
> ________________________________
> From: james costa <jimcosta@rogers.com>
> To: Willis,Charles E
> Sent: Tue Jul 20 10:52:59 2010
> Subject: [Team3S] Question
>
> Hi I have a question but not sure this is how I ask it..
>
>
>
>
>
> The question:
>
>
>
>
>
> I read somewhere that to reset the EU I must disconnect the battery
cables
> and touch the positive and negative Cables for 5 seconds...Is this the
case?
>
>
>
> Any response would be appreciated...jim
>
> To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
>
> To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm

--
---
Honk if you love Jesus, text while driving if you wanna meet him.

--
To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm=

--
To Unsub, please visit http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm

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